Eat, Drink, Repeat
The Siam@Siam Guide to Street Food Around Bangkok’s Sam Yan Neighbourhood
Eat like a local just steps from Siam@Siam Bangkok.
Publish Date: 30 September 2019 / Story by: Kankanit Wichiantanon
Visiting Bangkok is the stuff of street-food dreams. Stalls selling everything from pad Thai to colourful curries can be found on seemingly every corner. The offerings are so good that many vendors have made the cut in the hallowed Michelin Guide Thailand. Lucky for you, one of the city’s most bustling hubs for street eats sits within easy reach of Siam@Siam Bangkok. Join us as we cruise the streets in search of Samyan’s star-worthy street-food vendors.
How can instant “Mama” noodles taste so darn fine? The next-level tom yum hotpot at this late-night institution is not only Instagram gold but is also absolutely delicious. City-dwellers are known to queue for hours at this old-school townhouse for a taste of khao tom (rice porridge), yum (Thai-style salad) and, of course, the tom yum hot pot brimming with pork balls, seafood, veggies and eggs—as tasty as it is eye-popping. It’s no wonder this hotpot haunt has earned a Bib Gourmand in the Michelin Guide for two years running.
113 Soi Rong Muang, Charat Mueang Rd.
Open daily 4:30pm-1am
When it comes to the breakfast staple of joke, or rice porridge, locals rave about Joke Sam Yaan. Situated on Chula Soi 11, this classic spot has been serving its steaming bowls for 60 years. With all sorts of toppings to choose from, spanning kai yieow maa (preserved black egg) and soft-boiled egg to tender offal and pork balls, you’ll have fun creating a bowl of porridge that will absolutely treat your taste buds.
245 Buntadthong Rd., near corner of Chulalongkorn Soi 6.
Open Mon-Sun, 5-9am; 3:30-9pm
For over 50 years, this spot’s been churning out dainty but delish bowls of duck and goose noodles. Decadent braised goose, flavourful broth and perfectly chewy vermicelli noodles ensure a party in your mouth with every bite. For a heartier but equally satisfying chew, switch to the flat ribbon noodles. Another worthy recipient of Michelin’s Bib Gourmand accolade.
649 Buntadthong Rd.
Open daily 3-10pm
For a fiery yet comforting dose of Isaan food, head to this humble restaurant. Another that’s earned its stripes in the Michelin guidebook, Somtam Jay Daeng is best known for its namesake papaya salad, but the Northeastern Thai side dishes are no afterthought—think juicy charcoal-grilled pork neck coated in toasted rice bits or fried chicken whose skin is perfectly crisp and not-at-all greasy. The lunchtime student rush sees many dishes run out well before 1pm, so visit early!
U-Center, Chulalongkorn Soi 42, Rama 4 Rd.
Open daily 10am-4 pm
Think Thai dessert begins and ends with mango and sticky rice? Think again. Locals are more likely to point you towards bua loy (rainbow-coloured glutinous rice balls) and Sweet Circles is the place to get a taste. These Thai-Chinese rice balls come stuffed with all sorts of fillings, like red bean, taro, or black sesame lava, and swimming in bowls of ginger tea and milk. You can even have yours on a bed of flavoured shaved ice, as well. The line will be long but it’s well worth the wait.
Suanluang Square, Chulalongkorn Soi 5, Banthatdthong Rd.
Open daily 5-11pm
Rod Dee Ded
Calling all meat lovers! Rod Dee Ded has everything you could dream of, from the street-staple of pad kaprao kai (Thai basil chicken) to braised beef noodles in a rich bone broth. Need more convincing? The sweet pork atop warm rice is to-die-for, as are the stir-fried fish meatballs with pungent red curry sauce (pad phed). Don’t just take our word for it—the wait times also speak to the restaurant’s popularity.
1125-1127 Chulalongkorn Soi 9, Rama 4 Rd.
Open daily 10am-10pm
Jae Keang Restaurant (Banthadthong)
Famed for its extensive duck and goose-centric menu, Jae Keang Restaurant offers an almost overwhelming array of comfort food. Think cooked-to-order Thai classics like pad kaprao (basil stir-fry), ped palo (aromatic stewed duck), stir-fried sunflower sprouts with crispy pork and so much more to go with a dense rice porridge.
679 Banthadthong Rd., Chulalongkorn Soi 6
Open daily 11am-10pm
Looking for hearty Chinese grub in a fuss-free setting? Look no further. This casual shophouse dishes out classics like jelly fish salad with sesame oil, fried chicken with salt and pepper, and stir-fried string beans speckled with chunks of garlic. The xiao long bao (steamed dumplings) are a must-order thanks to a steaming hot and succulent broth that pours forth with every bite.
229 Chulalongkorn Soi 11
Open daily 10am-10pm
Longleng Lookchin Pla
Rewarded with a spot in Michelin’s Bib Gourmand selection for two years running, this shop’s hearty bowls of yentafo (pink soybean noodle soup) are an unqualified hit for their MSG-free fish balls made daily, super-satisfying pork bone broth and perfectly chewy egg noodles. You may have to wait up to 15 minutes to get your order, but the textural sensation is totally worth it.
315 Chulalongkorn Soi 22
Open daily 5-10pm
Peng Kua Gai
This hole-in-the-wall eatery has made a name for its unusual stir-fried chicken noodles which use Thailand’s beloved Taro fish strip snack in place of the typical starchy noodles. It’s gimmicky, yes, but also makes total sense thanks to its sensational combination of textures and flavours. The strips of Taro blur the line between sweet and savoury, only accentuated by a fried egg, crunchy fried bread sprinkles and a variety of other seasonings. Perfect.
131 Chulalongkorn Soi 3
Open daily 11am-9pm
Thai-Chinese families in search of the city’s juiciest braised goose and most flavor-packed roasted duck swear by Hokkee Kitchen. Round tables with yellow-red tablecloths and bright red banquet chairs give the place a certain sophisticated, if dated, charm. But there’s no complaining when you tuck into popular dishes like roasted goose legs with egg noodles and Chinese oyster omelette. Wash it all down with the restaurant’s signature sweet taro cream on sticky rice with ginkgo nuts.
1988 Buntatthong Rd.
Open daily 9am-10pm
Cheng Sim Ei
The Chinese shaved-ice desserts here are a refreshing way to end any hot, spicy meal. This dessert bar serves up vibrant bowls layered with all sorts of sweet treats, whether it’s ginkgo nuts, red beans, water chestnuts, taro, creamy chunks of coconut flesh or fresh fruits. After you pick your toppings and syrup (options are fresh milk, longan syrup, plain or sweetened coconut milk) your bowl will be topped off with a mountain of ice. Tuck in!
Open daily noon-midnight
Nai Song Moo Satay
As one of the most loved satay shops in Bangkok, Moo Satay Nai Song’s skewers stand out from the rest for their hefty hunks of pork that are up to twice the size of what you usually find on the street. It’s not only size that matters; they’re also known for their lip-smacking flavour thanks to a marinade of lemongrass, kaffir lime and other herbs. Check out the expert grilling action on the charcoal stover out front where a dash of coconut milk helps ensure the juiciest of meat. The pork goes perfectly with a thick and sweet peanut dipping sauce and zesty ajard, a mix of cucumber, onion, syrup and vinegar. So. Much. Yum.
Banthadthong Rd., corner of Chula Soi 6.
Open Tue-Sun 11am-9pm
Kui Chai A Pae Jao Kao
Perched on the corner directly in front of Nai Song Moo Satay (see above), this humble pushcart demands a crowd for its decadent Chinese-style fried chive cakes. The talkative lady behind this one-woman-show sure knows how to work the sizzling hot pan. Ask for her to crack an egg over your chive cakes—totally drool-worthy. Another cool thing about this place is she serves the food in a very traditional way using small containers made of dried banana leaves. Flavour yours up even further with a dash of chili vinegar and black soy sauce.
Banthadthong Rd., corner of Chula Soi 6
Open Tue-Fri 11am-4pm